Kafana “?”

The story

Opened in 1823 in a Balkan-style house opposite Belgrade Cathedral, Kafana “?” is widely regarded as the city’s oldest surviving kafana. Its low rooms retain dark timber, simple wooden tables and traditional sofra seating, while the kitchen continues the Serbian restaurant tradition.

Why Kafana “?” is iconic

An unusually intact piece of old Belgrade: modest rather than grand, but architecturally authentic and still animated by food, conversation and kafana culture.

Selected by Ernst Aben · Information reviewed July 2026